Otherwise, continue as you did for the inner edging. As you run the first straight stitch to attach the elastic, add a few reverse stitches at the top of the triangle so the attachment is super secure. The elastic will run right into the gap you left at the top when you added the inner edging elastic – no overlap means easier on your machine. To do this, you’ll want to line up the strips and elastic with the bottom of the side you’re stitching to, and allow the excess to extend beyond the top of the triangle. The edging will need to continue into part of the halter strap where you attach the top connectors. The outer edging of the suit is similar, with one key difference. Flip the triangle over to the back and cut off the excess edging fabric. If you run the outer stitch first, you can get some puffiness in the fabric that you don’t want. I start on the inner stitch, then run the outer. I keep this stitch pretty narrow, which will flatten out the edging and make it easier to attach a rhinestone trim, if you want. To do this, we want to run it through the machine two more times, print side up, with two straight stitches parallel to each other. Instead, I run two separate straight stitches to secure the elastic in place and give the suit the serger look with a regular machine. I don’t have the former and failed epically with using the latter. ![]() Ideally, you’d sew this with a serger that’s capable of two stitches at once, or use a twin needle. Now we’re going to cheat a little to get the finish the edging. Wrap the smaller strap of fabric around to the back, folding over the elastic on the back side and pin in place. Alternately, you can use a triangle bikini top that fits well with minimal bunching along the bottom. Instead, we’re going to use a set of Swim Shapers to model our suit around – even if we’re not going to use them as padding on our suit. If you’ve been following along, we’ve SELECTED OUR FABRIC and put an order in for connectors.
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